It had been eight years since I last set foot in Singapore. My last visit, in 2016, was a quick stopover after a trip to Sri Lanka. This time, I was bringing my friend Leah on her first-ever trip to Asia. We flew through Singapore on our way to Australia, tacking on four days at the back end of our trip to attend my friend’s wedding… and, of course, to eat everything in sight.
When we re-entered Singapore from Perth, my friend Ivan kindly picked us up from the airport and drove us to our hotel. As we cruised down the ECP (East Coast Parkway), the city started to feel more and more familiar. We passed under the tunnel of trees and caught glimpses of the Singapore Flyer and the iconic Marina Bay skyline just as the sun was setting. It was a warm, humid welcome back to a place I once called home.
- Singapore Itinerary At-A-Glance
- Where To Stay
- Where To Eat
- Where To Drink
- Where To Shop
- Things To Do in Singapore
Singapore Itinerary At-A-Glance
- Day 1 (Thursday Night): Check into Andaz, Dinner and dessert in Kampong Glam at Fatt Choy Eating House, dessert at Birds of Paradise (first visit)
- Day 2 (Friday): Day – Morning Swim at Andaz, Breakfast at Zam Zam, Lunch at Wisma Atria Food Court, Walked Orchard Road to Fort Canning (legendary rainstorm), Night – Lau Pa Sat dinner, Fullerton/ Marina Bay light show
- Day 3 (Saturday): Day – Ya Kun Kaya Toast, Lunch at Good Luck Beer Bar, Stroll & Shop, Haji Lane (daytime), Birds of Paradise (second visit!). Night – Friend’s Wedding (Tanjong Pagar)
- Day 4 (Sunday): Day – Dim Sum at Ngee Ann City with Ivan and Diana. Gardens by the Bay/Cloud Forest, Tian Tian Chicken Rice / Maxwell Road Food Centre. Night – Drinks at Jigger & Pony, dinner at Jumbo Seafood Clarke Quay
- Day 5 (Monday): Day – Breakfast at Toast Box, shopping in Bugis Junction, Singapore Slings at Long Bar at Raffles Hotel, So Many Daisos. Night – Dinner at Cosford Container Park.
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Where To Stay
Andaz Singapore (Kampong Glam): This was my first time staying at a hotel in Singapore—when I lived there as an expat, I had an apartment just off Orchard Road. I’d narrowed it down to two options: the sleek Andaz Singapore in Bugis, and Ann Siang House, a boutique hotel in Chinatown (Tanjong Pagar). While Ann Siang had the advantage of being steps from my friend’s wedding venue, the Andaz rooftop infinity pool gave it the edge.
We booked a City View Room, which was perfectly comfortable for two travelers. The space was thoughtfully laid out and featured floor-to-ceiling windows. A quick heads-up though—the windows are coated in small black frits (tiny dots) to reduce sun glare, so don’t expect a crystal-clear view of the skyline.
The complimentary minibar, restocked daily, included fun local finds like a can of Milo, a craft IPA, and my personal favorite: a small individually wrapped square of chocolate from Awfully Chocolate.
At check-in, we also received a voucher for a complimentary happy hour drink at the Sunroom on the 6th floor. I grabbed a glass of Sauvignon Blanc, but looking around the room, everyone seemed to be sipping the signature G&T, garnished with fresh rosemary and juniper berries. The Sunroom was stocked with complimentary snacks and beverages like apples, packaged chips and TWG teas. Friendly staff in uniforms with colorful brushstrokes floated around, primed to assist guests with the self-serve coffee machine.
Guests of the Andaz enjoy a complimentary minibar, restocked daily, as well as free snacks and beverages in the Sunroom.
Where To Eat
Hawker Center & Food Court Fare
Cosford Container Park (East Coast): One of Singapore’s newer outdoor food parks, Cosford Container Park is just minutes from Changi Airport, making it a convenient pit stop if you’ve got a ride—whether post-arrival or, as in my case, pre-departure. My flight home wasn’t until later that evening, a few hours after Leah’s, so Ivan and I made plans to grab dinner there before he dropped me off at the terminal.
Even though I technically had Char Siew Wonton Mee waiting for me onboard (courtesy of Singapore Airlines Premium Economy’s Book the Cook service), I wasn’t about to pass up one last culinary adventure. We had juicy Taiwanese skewers from BBQ Bar, a spicy papaya salad, and shrimp pad thai from Streets of Bangkok.
I was already wiped from a full day of walking and last-minute shopping. By the time we left, I was full and more than ready to pass out on the plane.
Kim Dae Mun Korean Food (Concorde Hotel Basement Food Court, Orchard Road). Tucked inside the slightly faded Concorde Hotel on Orchard Road, Kim Dae Mun was a beloved regular in my expat rotation—and I was thrilled to see it’s still going strong. This Korean eatery serves up grilled saba (mackerel), hearty tofu soondubu, and bibimbap with kimchi and banchan (Korean side dishes), all at incredibly reasonable prices.
We passed by during an off hour and weren’t hungry enough to stop (for once), but I nearly turned back. If you’re craving authentic Korean food in Singapore without the fuss or price tag, this is your spot.
Lau Pa Sat (Raffles Quay): You can find all the classic Singaporean hawker food at Lau Pa Sat, but it’s especially famous for satay. On weekends, Boon Tat Street transforms into Satay Street, and Stalls 7 and 8 are considered to be the best. We kept things simple by going with a set menu: 24 grilled skewers of beef, pork, and shrimp.
Stalls 7 & 8 are considered to have the best satay at Lau Pa Sat Hawker Center.
While Leah grabbed our order buzzer and waited at the communal benches, I queued for a pitcher of Tiger Beer. We sat shoulder to shoulder with locals and tourists alike, with music blaring and the smell of grilled meat in the air—it was a total vibe. I found myself wondering: Had it always been this lively? Or had I taken it for granted when I lived here? I’m sure Crazy Rich Asians made this iconic spot (and Singapore as a whole) more popular; despite the increased tourist attention, both food and vibes still hit.
Tian Tian Hainanese Chicken Rice (Maxwell Road Food Centre). Arguably the most famous chicken rice stall in Singapore, Tian Tian was on our list. We went late on a Sunday afternoon and were pleasantly surprised—no line. Post-COVID upgrades meant everything was cashless, making it an even smoother experience (we didn’t need physical cash once the entire trip).
Hawker center vendors accept cashless payment, making it not only inexpensive, but easy to get your chicken rice fix in Singapore.
We each ordered a Medium chicken rice, and shared a Small plate of bean sprouts stir-fried with soy sauce and bird’s eye chili. Food and drinks are usually sold at separate stalls in hawker centers, so I grabbed two calamansi juices from a neighboring vendor. Simple, satisfying, very Singapore.
Restaurants
The Banana Leaf Apolo (Little India): A Little India institution, The Banana Leaf Apolo delivers bold flavors and hearty portions. Located in the heart of Little India, it’s known for its traditional South Indian dishes served on banana leaves.
We almost detoured to nearby Machan’s Kitchen. While Machan’s is well-rated, it lacked the ambience we were after (and not a soul was in the restaurant on that rainy afternoon). At Banana Leaf we feasted on Chicken Tandoori, crispy Vegetable Pakoras, creamy palak paneer a parade of naan and roti, and sweet mango lassis. It’s perfect if you’re in the mood for something communal, vibrant, and a little messy.
Fatt Choy Eating House (Haji Lane). This was our first meal in Singapore—a cozy dinner reunion with my Singaporean friends from my Shanghai days. Over plates of Dry Laksa with jumbo prawns and tofu and XO Carrot Cake (made with turnip), we caught up and cooled off with tall glasses of calamansi lime juice.
Fatt Choy is part of the Good Luck Group, and we also stopped into Good Luck Beerhouse a few days later for lunch. There, Leah and split a half-pint of local craft beer and dug into the Signature Pork Lard Fried Rice, topped with a fried egg, it was gloriously oily and deeply flavorful.
Jumbo Seafood Riverside (Clarke Quay). We showed up around 8:00 p.m. on a Monday and every outdoor table was already full. We ordered the Chili Crab for two (market price, crab chosen by the kitchen) and five fried mantou buns to soak up the sauce.
Fried (rather than steamed) buns are the way to go with Chili Crab, in my opinion. Order a few more than you think you’ll need.
The deep-fried mantou (buns) were smaller than I remembered—or maybe I’m just bigger. (We ended up doubling our order to ten.) Bibs on, sleeves rolled up, and armed with our lobster crackers and seafood picks, we dug into the crab. After dinner, we took a short stroll around Clarke Quay, once a mainstay of my nightlife routine. If there had been a McDonald’s nearby, I might’ve capped the night with a bag of Shake Shake Fries.
Breakfast & Dessert
Birds of Paradise Gelato Boutique (Various Locations): While killing time at Changi Airport before our flight to Sydney, we wandered the basement levels of the Jewel Food Hall and noticed a long line outside a futuristic yet minimalistic little kiosk. We couldn’t quite tell what was being served. After our first dinner in Singapore, we got our answer. For dessert, our friends brought us to the Bugis outlet of Birds of Paradise, a cult-favorite gelato shop known for its beautifully crafted, botanical and Asian-inspired flavors.
Signature scoops include White Chrysanthemum with cacao nibs and a delicate Osmanthus Pear Sorbet infused with peach blossoms and mandarin peel. The spare space was filled with the warm scent of freshly baked waffle cones, and the gelato was sublime. The Sea Salt Hojicha flavor hit the spot.
Ya Kun Kaya Toast and Toast Box (Various Locations). I’ll always have a soft spot for Ya Kun Kaya Toast, a go-to from my expat days. The closest one on this trip was tucked in the basement of Bugis Junction Mall. A word of warning: the malls are massive, so know your destination, including which level you’re headed to.
The classic set comes with two soft-boiled eggs, toast slathered with butter and kaya (coconut jam), and your choice of coffee or tea. Leah and I split an original kaya toast set, plus another topped with peanut butter.
A few days later, we stopped by Toast Box (same mall, street level), and thanks to our friend Ivan’s coaching, we were much more confident ordering kopi (coffee). I enjoyed an iced Yuan Yang (half tea, half coffee). Leah went bold and got her kaya toast topped with pork floss. Watching the baristas pour and “pull” the kopi (kopi tarik) is part of the fun.
Ya Kun is old-school charm, whereas Toast Box is more contemporary (and a touch pricier). But both are solid picks for a quick, staple Singapore breakfast.
Where To Drink
Jigger and Pony (Tanjong Pagar). Located in the Amara Hotel, Jigger & Pony is a dark, art deco-inspired speakeasy rated #5 among The World’s 50 Best Bars in 2024. If you’re after a proper cocktail in Singapore, this is the place. The menu is presented zine-style, with beautifully designed pages walking you through their signature and seasonal creations.
Our reservation enabled us to slip in just before the end of Happy Hour (6:00–7:30 PM), where select cocktails—including one rotating feature—are offered for $19 SGD (versus $28).
Happy Hour at Jigger & Pony features a selection of cocktails offered at a steep discount.
I started with a Yuzu Whisky Sour, a bright, balanced, and citrusy cocktail made with Maker’s Mark, yuzu marmalade and St. Germain. Next, I went with the Clover Club, a vintage gin cocktail with lovely tea-like tannins from raspberry leaves. Leah ordered the Spicy Margarita, topped with spicy beer foam and garnished with an agave lollipop. If you’re serious about spirits, book ahead.
Mr. Stork at the Andaz Hotel (Kampong Glam). Mr. Stork, the rooftop bar perched atop Andaz Singapore, is all about the panoramic views—with tented cabanas and 360-degree skyline vistas stretching to the harbor. We visited on a Friday for a post-dinner nightcap. The vibe was quieter than expected (likely a lull after a Thursday night corporate crowd), but neither were were trying to rage.
We both tried the Amrita, a gin cocktail infused with clarified guava and lemongrass—delicate and tropical without being too sweet. Mr. Stork has a Golden Hour special, which runs daily from 5:00–7:00 PM, offering 1-for-1 (also known as BOGO, Buy One Get One) glasses of Veuve Clicquot for $35 SGD. Reserve a cabana if you want to elevate the experience with a little privacy.
Enjoy sweeping views and 1-for-1 glasses of champagne during Golden Hour at Mr. Stork rooftop bar at the Andaz.
Where To Shop
Haji Lane (Kampong Glam). If you’re looking for a shopping experience that stands out from Singapore’s luxury malls, Haji Lane is the place to be. This narrow, vibrant street is lined with shophouse boutiques offering a mix of quirkly local designs and vintage finds- not the usual high street brands you’ll find in most malls across the city.
The colorful sails strung above the street add a festive touch, lighting up the narrow, pedestrian-only lane as night falls. When we visited on a Saturday afternoon, we stumbled upon the Merlion mascot. And if you’re looking for fun memorabilia, Singapore Gift Gate (22 Haji Lane) is dedicated entirely to Merlion-themed merch, from keychains to plush toys.
Awfully Chocolate (Various Locations). This premium chocolate store has expanded their range (and number stores) since I last visited. From bars presented in sleek, matte black gift tins to decadent truffles and layered cakes (available whole or by the slice), there’s something for every chocolate lover.
Daiso (Various Locations). While Daiso may be expanding in the U.S., but I always visit when I’m in Singapore. For those unfamiliar, Daiso is a cute Japanese dollar store where almost everything is surprisingly affordable (not everything is strictly $1). It’s a treasure trove for practical household goods and its extensive collection of Kawaii items, with dedicated product lines to popular franchises such as Disney, Sanrio, and Miffy.
On this trip, my favorite purchase was a wooden food and vegetable play set for my niece, which included an adorable squid-and-octopus combo.
TWG Tea (Various Locations). Famous for its luxury teas, TWG also has the best packaging in the business. Their collectible tea tins are as stylish as they are practical, and make for the perfect gift for any tea lover. Lucky for me, sachets of Singapore Breakfast Tea (a blend of green and black teas with a touch of vanilla) were offered in our hotel room at the Andaz. Whether you’re an avid tea drinker or just looking for an elegant souvenir, TWG’s offerings are sure to delight.
Things To Do in Singapore
Let’s be clear—when it comes to Singapore, eating and drinking are hands-down the top attractions. The city’s vibrant food scene is world-renowned, from its bustling hawker centers and sleek food halls to Michelin-starred restaurants. If you’re eating well, you’re doing it right.
Gardens by the Bay and Cloud Forest. When I was an expat living in Singapore, Gardens by the Bay was still under construction. It was exciting to finally visit this award-winning botanical garden on the city’s waterfront. We bought a combo ticket which included entry to both Cloud Forest and the OCBC Skyway. While we had hoped to experience the gardens at night for that Crazy Rich Asians-style wedding vibe, we couldn’t refuse a ride to the Gardens from our friends after a filling dim sum brunch at Ngee Ann City.
Our first stop was Cloud Forest, a cool oasis that features the world’s tallest indoor waterfall and a range of tropical plants. To get the full effect, it’s best to visit during misting hours (check online schedules), which adds a dreamy atmosphere to the lush greenery. The highlight here is the Cloud Walk—a suspended platform offering panoramic views of the garden’s flora.
It’s recommended to visit Cloud Forest during misting hours – check the Gardens By The Bay website for times.
After Cloud Forest, we took a stroll on the OCBC Skyway, a suspended walkway linking the iconic Supertree Grove’s tree-like towers. The view of the gardens and Marina Bay from the bridge is stunning. The ticket grants you 15 minutes on the Skyway, which is plenty of time to cross the bridge. Note: if it starts raining while you’re up there, you’ll be required to leave the skyway, and tickets are non-refundable. Access to the Supertree Observatories require a separate ticket.
Marina Bay. One of Singapore’s most iconic areas is Marina Bay, where sleek skyscrapers meet sparkling waterfront views. We stumbled upon Spectra, the light and water show at Marina Bay Sands that blends water fountains, lasers, projections, and music. Spectra runs every 15 minutes nightly and is free and open to the public.
Spectra, the light and water show at Marina Bay Sands, runs every 15 minutes nightly.
Orchard Road. Take a leisurely stroll down Orchard Road, Singapore’s famous shopping strip, and prepare to get lost in its maze of massive malls. While shopping here can be pricier compared to other destinations (thanks to the costs of importing goods to this small island nation), the real appeal of Orchard Road lies in the experience itself. These mega malls offer a cool retreat from Singapore’s tropical heat, and they’re the perfect spot to window shop, people-watch, and indulge in the many food courts and food halls.
No one’s in a hurry here, so wander at your own pace. When hunger strikes, head to the Uncle Chieng’s cart outside Ngee Ann City / Takashimaya for an ice cream sandwich—a nostalgic local treat that’s perfect for beating the heat.
Singapore is one of the easiest places in the world to navigate and enjoy (as long as you don’t mind sweating through your shirt). Staying shaded and moving slowly are all part of the laid-back, low-stress vibe.
The food everywhere and reliably excellent, whether it’s served on a proper plate or plastic tray. Having lived here for over a year, I still find joy in revisiting the greatest hits while discovering new hotels, cocktail bars, and cold scoops of ice cream.
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