This New Mexico road trip was inspired by a desire to experience the landscapes, colors and contours that shaped Georgia O’Keeffe’s art. The travel plan was to ultimately visit Abiquiu and Ghost Ranch, but there were plenty of great drives, hikes, and food to be found along the way.
With ten days and a rental car (which we affectionately named Walt, after Walter White, Bryan Cranston’s character from Breaking Bad), we set off to explore the textures, and flavors of Northern New Mexico. Fly in early to Albuquerque (as we did), and you can be on the Turquoise Trail by lunchtime and seated for dinner in Santa Fe, our official first stop on this adventure.
- Santa Fe Itinerary At-A-Glance
- Drive the Turquoise Trail
- Where To Stay
- Where To Eat
- Where To Drink
- Places to See: Arts & Culture in Santa Fe
- Where To Shop
Santa Fe Itinerary At-A-Glance
- Day 0.5 (Friday): Land in Albuquerque, rent car, drive Turquoise Trail. Lunch at Mineshaft Tavern Madrid. Check into hotel, Drinks and Dinner in Santa Fe.
- Day 1: (Saturday): Day – Santa Fe Farmer’s Market and Railyard Arts District, Lunch at La Choza, Afternoon at Meow Wolf. Night – Drink at La Fonda, dinner at Cafe Pasqual’s
- Day 2: (Sunday): Day – Check out early, explore Downtown Santa Fe – Loretto Chapel, Palace of the Governors/The Portal, Frito Pie at Five & Dime, before driving the High Road to Taos
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Drive the Turquoise Trail
The scenic route between Albuquerque and Santa Fe, New Mexico State Road 14 (a.k.a. the Turquoise Trail), winds through a string of small towns offering various distractions of the art, culinary, and retail therapy kind. The largest, liveliest stop is Madrid, where you’ll likely spend most of your time. The straightforward, easy drive (90 minutes without stops) provides many opportunities to craft your own adventure.
Tijeras
A stretch of road known as The Musical Highway is supposed to play “America the Beautiful” while you drive over it at the right speed. We either missed it completely, or drove too slowly or quickly (45 MPH is recommended). All we heard was the sound of rumble strips. (Note: Tripadvisor reports this attraction permanently closed.)
Golden
In Golden, it’s worth stopping at Henderson Store, a well-curated shop known for its reasonably priced Native jewelry and pottery. Had this not been our first shopping stop of the trip (and the only thing standing between us and lunch), I probably would’ve left with something. In general, most mercantiles seemed to have the best stuff.
Madrid
This town, the biggest along the trail, has colorful storefronts, artsy vibes, and the greatest variety of food options. We had lunch at Mine Shaft Tavern, then wandered around to walk it off.
- For lunch: The green chile cheeseburger and Mad Chile margarita at Mine Shaft Tavern is a great choice.
- For a sweet treat: Shugarman’s Chocolate Shop is a small, family-run operation with adventurous flavors and generous samples. We tried dark chocolate with green chile, lemongrass, and margarita salt and left with two pieces of chocolate barks: dark chocolate with hibiscus, lemon & ginger, and milk chocolate with orange and crushed French crêpes.
- For an afternoon pick-me-up: Village Greengrocer is where you can grab a cold soda or coffee… and a bag of local pinto beans.
- For retail therapy: Alchemy Studio‘s curated selection of wall weavings, ceramics, and jewelry crafted by local artists was worth browsing. I was a fan of Claire Patterson’s gold vermeil baby bike lock earrings.
- For the pop culture photo op: Maggie’s Diner – not actually a diner. Built for the movie Wild Hogs (starring John Travolta), it’s a kitschy souvenir t-shirt shop.
Cerrillos
Cerrillos is a whisper of the Old West – “a ghost town” not nearly as animated a town as Madrid, but worth a quick pull-over.
- For contemporary art: We’d just missed the re-opening of Origami in the Garden by Kevin Box Studio, a whimsical sculpture garden.
- For a cocktail: If we hadn’t already had enchiladas and margaritas in Madrid, we would’ve stopped at the Blackbird Saloon for a drink.
- For retail therapy: Another mercantile FTW. I loved Lillian Padilla’s copper etchings and the hojalata (tin) frames at Cerillos Mercantile.
- For another pop culture photo op: The abandoned Wortley Hotel, featured in the movie Young Guns, still stands.
- For a quiet pause: Pop into St. Joseph’s Church and garden.
Where To Stay
The Mystic Santa Fe delivers contemporary renovated motel vibes with splashes of vintage flavor. While rooms don’t offer much natural light and the walls are somewhat thin (live music on-site means you’ll hear it), service here was among the friendliest and most accommodating of our entire trip. It’s also just a 12-minute drive from downtown Santa Fe.
The continental breakfast is thoughtful and generous. A selection of Rishi teas, warm oatmeal, house-made granola, assorted pastries, and a DIY waffle station were among the items offered. We didn’t have much time in our schedule to attend the live music shows in the bar both nights of our stay, but popped in on Saturday night after dinner. It was a lively scene.
We booked a Vintage King room, which featured a King bed, large flat screen TV (late seasons of Beverly Hills 90210 on Pluto TV were a constant in our room), and authentic 1950s antiques. The room lacks an in-room coffee/tea setup (coffee and tea are available in the bar/breakfast area), but there is a mini fridge. The bathroom features a colorful tiled shower and bath amenities are by Beekman 1802.
You have the option to book a Vintage- or modern (“Mystic-“) style room at this motel. I preferred the antique touches of the Vintage Rooms.
Staff were incredibly accommodating. They provided hot water for our afternoon tea, and even provided us with tiny to-go containers to collect sacred dirt from the Santuario de Chimayó in Taos. Not only was the Mystic was a great value, the pleasant service left a positive and lasting impression.
Where To Eat
On The Turquoise Trail
The Mine Shaft Tavern (Madrid). We split a green chile buffalo burger with onion rings and a side of Christmas-style (translation: red and green chile) enchiladas. The Mad Chile Margarita (well tequila, jalapeño, cucumber, chile salt) was so refreshing we swore it was hydrating (it was also a bargain at $10) – like spa water infused with tequila.
In Santa Fe
La Choza. Sister restaurant to downtown Southwest staple The Shed. We devoured a trio of dips (guacamole, queso, and a zesty bean dip), spinach enchiladas Christmas-style with pozole and beans, and fish tacos (sizable, but skippable). Even my skinny silver margarita (Espolon blanco + naranja) was a bold lunch move.
Cafe Pasqual’s. We snagged a reservation at the communal table, situated at the heart of this festive, high-ceilinged restaurant, by calling just a couple days ahead. Seated with four other pairs of diners, conversation was inevitable. One of them, a local reuniting with a friend from out-of-town, tipped us off to the best Frito Pie in town.
Celebrating a special occasion? If you’d like your own table, book in advance at Cafe Pasqual’s.
To start, Leah and I shared pupusas (griddled corn cakes, zucchini, jack cheese) with escabeche (quick picked veggies) and a sweet tamal. For our main, we shared the Plato Supremo, which came with a chicken mole enchilada, chile-rubbed flank steak, and a cheese-laden chile relleno.
We were too full for dessert. Do not skip the heart-shaped cheese crisps that kick off the meal (I’d take the recipe if they’d be willing to share). A glass of Gruet sparkling rosé is not a bad a way to start.
La Boca. This bustling tapas spot showed no signs of slowing down. We showed up on time for our 8:15 PM reservation. After a short wait were directed to the rear dining room we wouldn’t know existed from the front. This room was not only more spacious, but featured live music.
The rear dining room at La Boca felt more spacious and vibey, and featured live music. I recommend requesting a reservation there.
We had the classics – gambas al ajillo (prepared with plump, sweet shrimp), pan con tomate with jamon serrano, and a large plate of patatas bravas prepared with purple potatoes (the small plate would have been fine). We also had a delicious scallop special and the apple and manchego salad.
Railyard Farmers Market (Saturdays)
Don’t be deterred by the snaking line for baked goods – it moves quickly. I grabbed a green chile cheese croissant and white chocolate pistachio donut, though I heard the cornmeal apple cider and blueberry donuts are among the crowd favorites.
In addition to food, there are a plethora of art & craft vendors. We admired the wreaths or red chiles and cholla wood crosses (not actually wood, but the dried exoskeletons of cacti). Leah grabbed a pair of beaded and sterling silver earrings from Herndon Forge – and received compliments every time she wore them.
Frito Pie at the Five & Dime. You can’t miss the As Seen on TV sign of this general store right on the main square. Head straight to the Snack Bar in the back. $8 struck us as a steep for a Frito Pie (not that I’m a connoisseur), but it held us down between hotel breakfast and lunch in Chimayo – we left no crumbs.
Where To Drink
La Reina (at El Rey Court). Tucked into El Rey Court, La Reina describes itself as an “airy mezcal and tequila-focused bar”. I found it to be more intimate than it let on. All seats at the bar were occupied when we arrived around 7:00 PM for a pre-dinner drink. Against my better intentions not to start the evening with mezcal… we are at a mezcal bar. I had the Root Word – amaro, grapefruit, Rey Campero Espadín, lemon, and demerara. It leaned smoky to start and citrusy to finish.
The Lounge at La Fonda. If you can’t stay at an iconic hotel, at least visit the bar. We popped into La Fonda before dinner at Cafe Pasqual’s. I tried the Tamarindo Margarita, which happens to be on the the official Santa Fe Margarita Trail.
Live music added a cozy touch. The bar itself is pretty dim and skews older in crowd. Televisions played WWE, which lent the room a sports-bar energy. The rooftop Bell Tower Bar wasn’t open yet (we were once again too early in the season), but I imagine it’s a great spot for golden hour.
Places to See: Arts & Culture in Santa Fe
Georgia O’Keeffe Museum. Advance booking recommended. A small museum but a must when in Santa fe. It hits even harder after having seen the landscapes of Abiquiú and Ghost Ranch. It took about an hour to explore all nine rooms without feeling rushed.
Meow Wolf. The original House of Eternal Return is a non-linear fever dream of art installations. There’s no “right” way to experience it. Explore hidden portals, interact with live performers, try to solve the mystery of the missing family (or don’t). We spent about two hours there and suggest grabbing a drink at the in-house bar before entering. The $2 spectrograph glasses are optional fun and not totally necessary (we found an abandoned pair while exploring the house).
There will be kids at Meow Wolf… but there is also a bar. Meow Wolf also hosts evening concerts and offers concert + exhibition ticket packages.
Note: Timed entry tickets are a little cheaper than enter-anytime tickets, and you can adjust your entry time up to an hour before your scheduled visit – something we seriously considered after a big lunch at La Choza.
Railyard Arts District. We just missed the Railyard’s Last Friday art walk, having taken our time along the Turquoise Trail. But if you’re in town when it’s happening, it’s a great way to experience Santa Fe’s contemporary art scene with a built-in vibe.
Even outside of the official art walk, the Railyard is perfect for a DIY gallery crawl- especially if you need a break from the buzz of the Farmers Market. Most galleries are clustered within easy walking distance, and nearly every gallerist we encountered was eager to chat.
We enjoyed the Lee Price show at Evoke Contemporary, which explored women and their relationship with food (mostly cakes), Billy Schenck’s Warhol-meets-Western vignettes at Blue Rain Gallery, and the Lucid Dreaming at the Thoma Foundation Art Vault. The latter was a tech-forward show heavy on trippy video installations- the perfect appetizer to our Meow Wolf visit.
The Railyard art galleries are free to explore, as is SITE Santa Fe, a contemporary art space in the district.
Loretto Chapel. Not really an art thing, more like a quick architecture thing. Known for its unique spiral staircase, it’s an in-and-out stop if you want to check this one off your list and are fond of staircases. $5 admission.
Where To Shop
The Portal at the Palace of the Governors. The Portal (a long, shaded outdoor corridor) is a must-visit for anyone hoping to pick up authentic Native American jewelry and support the makers directly. Admiring the craftsmanship of the artisans and engaging them in conversation is part of the experience. Don’t expect flea market prices, but fair ones, considering the high level of craftsmanship.
I took a shine to a sterling silver cuff featuring Native engravings, Sleeping Beauty turquoise, and coral cabochons but wasn’t ready to commit. (FYI: Coral is becoming rarer in jewelry making, with spiny oyster shell taking its place.)
Keshi, the Zuni Connection. We learned about Zuni fetishes – small animal carvings from stone, imbued with symbolic meaning – from the helpful staff at this charming little store. Here, you have full permission to browse the cases to find a spirit animal that speaks to you. While fetishes are the thing here, Keshi also has a nice jewelry edit. I admired a pair of lightweight, wearable squash blossom earrings by Erline James.
Santa Fe was just the start of a ten day New Mexico road trip, and we went hard on margaritas and enchiladas from the jump. The food is delicious, but it’s not light fare, so pace yourself.
Considering the variety of artisan goods – textiles, pottery, jewelry, and so on – shopping can be overwhelming without a game plan. Before I return to the area, I’d love to do more research about what distinguishes the different styles of Native American art. That being said, my advice is, if you see something that makes you smile, buy it.
Santa Fe is a less than 2-hour drive from both Albuquerque and Taos, and can easily combine with either city for a weekend road trip. If you can stretch the trip to include Ojo Caliente Spa and a deeper dive into Georgia O’Keeffe’s New Mexico, it’s worth it.
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