After three weeks exploring Australia and a few days planned in Singapore, I wanted to squeeze in one last adventure – a bonus vacation stop between Perth and Singapore. Ubud, Bali, was a direct flight between the two. I’d been once before (in 2011). There was a luxury eco-resort I’d been dying to visit, and this trip presented the perfect excuse.
We touched down at Ngurah Rai International Airport at 8:30 PM local time. The arrivals area was a blur of drivers clamoring for our business. Thankfully, I had prearranged our airport transfer on Viator — enabling us to skip the need to haggle.
The ride to Ubud takes about an hour, but our driver had to stop for petrol. Long queues at the station tacked on an extra 30 minutes to our trip, adding to an already long travel day. We had taken a ferry from Rottnest Island to Fremantle, spent half a day exploring, then bussed to Perth Airport for our evening flight to Ubud. We were exhausted, yet as our car weaved through the night, dodging a sea of motorbikes, I felt a rush of excitement.
Just before midnight, we arrived at Komaneka at Monkey Forest, our first of two “homes” during our stay in Ubud. The staff welcomed us with a refreshing drink as they handled check-in and transferred our bags. As we stepped into our villa, we saw a single paper lantern hung from a tree, its reflection shimmering across the surface of our private pool. Beyond the terrace, the dark silhouette of a rice paddy stretched beneath the night sky. We had arrived in our (first) little oasis in the city, with a stay at an eco-luxe resort still to follow.
- Ubud Itinerary At-A-Glance
- Where To Stay
- Where To Eat
- Where To Drink
- Things To Do in Ubud
- Where To Shop
- Add This To Your Ubud To-Do List
Note: This post contains affiliate links. I may earn a small commission if a purchase is made through these links, at no extra cost to you. I only include links to products, properties or services I have direct experience with, have seriously researched, or would personally recommend.
Ubud Itinerary At-A-Glance
- Day 1: Day – Breakfast and Yoga at Komaneka at Monkey Forest, Campuhan Ridge Walk (South to North), Lunch at Warung Angon, Afternoon Tea at Komaneka, Night: Dinner and Dancing along Jalan Monkey Forest
- Day 2: Day – Breakfast at Komaneka, Rice Paddy Walk, Gelato at Tukie’s Coconut Shop, Shopping along Jalan Hanuman, Night: Dinner at Warung Lokal
- Day 3: Day – Breakfast and Yoga at Komaneka, Transfer To Bambu Indah, Lunch at Bambu Indah, Natural Pools. Night – Drinks at Elevator Sunset Bar, dinner at Puku Bali
- Day 4: Day – Breakfast at Bambu Indah, Pool Morning, Lunch at Bambu Indah, Massages at Bambu Indah. Night – Drinks at The Sunset Bar, dinner at Sayan Night Market
Note: This post contains affiliate links. I only include links to products, properties or services I have direct experience with, have seriously considered, or would personally recommend.
Where To Stay
Komaneka at Monkey Forest (Jalan Monkey Forest). Monkey Forest is one of five Komaneka Resorts in Bali, four of which are located in Ubud. Situated near the Sacred Monkey Forest Sanctuary, this boutique accommodation blends luxury with cultural immersion. The resort is uniquely attached to an art gallery specializing in contemporary Balinese and Indonesian art. The reception and villas are tucked away from the main road behind the gallery, creating a serene and secluded retreat.
The Pool Villa was comfortable and spacious, and the bathroom included hers & hers sinks, a huge bathtub and shower stall. While Monkey Forest has a communal infinity pool, the major perk of the villa is the private terrace with a generously sized private plunge pool, sturdy lounge chairs (which the staff set up every morning with fresh linens) and shaded outdoor seating.
The hospitality at Komaneka is legendary. Included in the room rate were complimentary breakfast, morning yoga classes, afternoon high tea, and minibar snacks. In addition to these perks, the staff were among the most accommodating. It was truly a pleasure to stay here. Find my full review of Komaneka at Monkey Forest in this post about where to stay in Ubud.
Bambu Indah (Jalan Sayan). Bambu Indah was a major reason I wanted to return to Bali. After starting our trip at Komaneka at Monkey Forest, we transitioned to this secluded, nature-immersed retreat designed for relaxation. While it was tough to leave Komaneka’s warmth and hospitality, Bambu Indah—just a 15-minute drive away—offered an entirely different experience: a sustainable, eco-luxury resort surrounded by rice paddies, jungle, and natural pools. It is owned and developed by the John Hardy family, whose jewelry business originated and has long been tied to Bali/Indonesia.
The bamboo architecture characteristic of the resort overall is quite impressive. We stayed in one of the Mahogany Tents, which were the most affordable way of staying at the resort. Marketed as “glamping as its highest”, these bamboo platforms are literally perched up in the jungle canopy.
The tent was very comfortable, and a giant collapsible half-dome and portable air conditioner keep cool air in (and crawlies out) at night. While the tents can get warm during the day, you’ll be spending most of your time at the spring-fed natural pools, a resort highlight. Day passes to the pools are available to guests not staying at Bambu Indah.
The restaurants serve tasty, clean, and non-inflammatory cuisine (breakfast at the river restaurant is included in the room rate). Fresh fruit juices, crispy taro hash browns and grilled and simply dressed fish were among my favorite dishes.
You can find my detailed review of Bambu Indah here.
Where To Eat
Near Jalan Monkey Forest / City Center
Rare Angon Warung (Jalan Bangkiang Sidem). After a hot, sweaty trek along the Campuhan Ridge Walk (South to North from the city center), it’s tempting to plop down at the first restaurant you see on the other side. If you have five more minutes of walking in you, head to Rare Angon, a humble but fantastic warung serving traditional Indonesian comfort food.
Here you can enjoy a peaceful meal overlooking rice paddies after your hike. A fresh young coconut ($2 USD) was a no-brainer, and we shared satay, nasi campur, and jackfruit rendang, washing it all down with a jumbo cold Bintang. The total bill was about $15 USD – for two.
Warung Lokal (Jalan Gautama). After a long afternoon of shopping along Jalan Hanoman, we searched for a nearby spot and landed on this little warung for an early dinner.
We grabbed seats along the railing, an excellent spot for people-watching. The food was incredibly affordable. The lumpia (spring rolls) hit the spot, and the experience made for a reliable and budget-friendly dining stop. Note: There’s more than one Warung Lokal, unsurprisingly. This one was closest to where we’d been shopping, but a different one on Jalan Monkey Forest appeared highly rated.
Watercress Ubud (Jalan Monkey Forest). A relatively upscale yet casual open-air, street-side dining experience that didn’t come with a hefty price tag. We started with a round of cocktails, hungry for a change from Balinese cuisine. I had my sights set on a Mediterranean-style salad I’d seen on the online menu, only to learn upon arrival that they’d run out—disappointing, but not a dealbreaker.
Leah and I shared two sandwiches: a fried chicken and a mushroom burger. Both were a little oily, but satisfying. The location is excellent, just down the street from Komaneka at Monkey Forest, and we walked in without a reservation. (FYI, Donna, the bar/restaurant directly across the street, looked like a popular, scene-y spot.)
Tukie’s Coconut Shop (Jalan Monkey Forest). This is the place to satisfy a coconut craving. Tukie’s serves heavenly coconut gelato, coconut-infused desserts, and a small selection of pantry goods, for those who want to bring a taste of Bali home.
After a sweltering walk through the rice paddies, we deserved a treat. On our first visit, I went for the signature coconut gelato—a single scoop topped with fresh coconut ribbons, dried coconut flakes, and a crisp rolled wafer. Simple and absolutely divine.
We visited once more just before leaving for Bambu Indah. I had my heart set on the Daluman—a dessert drink with grass jelly, coconut milk, sticky rice, palm sugar, and blended ice. They were sold out (ugh). I ordered the Cendol instead (sago, coconut milk, palm sugar, pandan, jackfruit, crushed ice). It was much sweeter than expected.
I picked up a small pouch of coconut granola and a jar of coconut butter. The granola was light and not overly sweet. The coconut butter may seem dry and brittle if it’s cold, but assumes a much more rich and creamy texture when it’s warm.
My recommendation? Stick to the basics at Tukie’s: anything that highlights their coconut gelato, either the OG scoop or the Fruit Salad Ice Cream (a tropical fruit mix with coconut gelato, granola, and coconut brittle). Leah’s looked delicious and, dare I say, healthy.
Near Jalan Sayan
Puku Bali (Jalan Raya Sayan). You wouldn’t think that in tropical Bali, we’d be craving ramen—but we had to break up the Balinese breakfasts and resort lunches from time to time, and Puku was a 4.8-star Google-rated ramen shop. We wanted to find out if it lived up to its (internet) reputation. At the Sunset Bar, we made a new Kiwi friend and recruited him to join us for dinner.
We three walked into the restaurant around 8:00PM and had it mostly to ourselves. We started off our meal with a round of Singharaja pilsners and BBQ pork steamed buns, followed by bowls of pork ramen for each of us. Three beers, three full-size ramen bowls, and the baos ran us less than $50 USD total. It was one of the more expensive meals of the trip only in relative terms, but still a great value considering it included drinks, appetizers, and a main dish each.
After dinner, our new friend hopped on a motorbike to Canggu, while Leah and I walked the eight winding minutes back through Bambu Indah’s forested paths, climbing the spiral steps to crash in our treetop tent.
Sayan Night Market. It would have been easy to stay nestled in Bambu Indah and never leave the premises. Never ones to sit completely still, Leah and I went in search of a little adventure (and food). Just a ten-minute walk from the resort, Sayan Night Market provided the perfect low-key local dining experience. (Quick note: The streets aren’t well-lit, sidewalks are uneven, and motorbike traffic is constant, so be mindful while walking.)
Though small in size, the market was bustling for a Wednesday night. We shared a plate of ayam goreng (Indonesian fried chicken) with rice from one stall and each grabbed a bowl of bakso (meatball soup) from another. Each dish was $2 USD or less— providing another authentic and ultra-affordable taste of local food.
Try ayam goreng (Indonesian fried chicken) and bakso (meatball soup) at Sayan Night Market.
Where To Drink
Elevator Sunset Bar at Bambu Indah. So nice, we went twice. Perched above lush rice paddies, the Sunset Bar at Bambu Indah offers a breathtaking panoramic view over the Bongkasa rice paddies. If you’re staying at Bambu Indah, reserve your seat at the bar well before sunset—the best spots along the railing go fast.
On our first visit, I had a perfectly tart passionfruit martini, garnished with half a passionfruit perched on the rim. On our second night, I went for something stronger—a cocktail made with arak, Indonesia’s answer to rum, distilled from fermented rice, coconut palm, or sugarcane. I felt that one.
One of the features of the Sunset Bar is the bamboo elevator – constructed completely from bamboo. That’s impressive, but be aware that objects on the internet are smaller than they appear: the elevator only fits three people at a time. It ascends through a 20-meter mud shaft to arrive at the Sunset Bar.
Laughing Buddha Bar (Jalan Monkey Forest). We heard the band before we even saw the place. On our first night in Ubud, their music carried all the way to our pool villa.
On our way to dinner at Watercress, we passed by the bar and were instantly drawn in by the lively atmosphere—good vibes, familiar tunes. Later that night, we grabbed another big Bintang and hovered by the bar, as all the tables were already full. The playlist? Bruno Mars, Red Hot Chili Peppers, ABBA—a mix of tourist-pleasing covers.
The Blue Door (Jalan Monkey Forest). I saw a ’90s R&B and hip-hop party advertised online and it was game over. After soaking up the scene (and a couple more Bintangs) at Laughing Buddha, we made our way down the street to The Blue Door.
The party was slow to start (maybe we got there too early), but we got our dance fix regardless. The venue is split into two areas: a street-level bar with live music and a club/lounge in the back.
Things To Do in Ubud
Campuhan Ridge Walk: A Sun-Drenched Stroll
From Jalan Monkey Forest, we walked north to Jalan Raya Ubud, passing the Ubud Palace, before heading west toward the southern entrance of the Campuhan Ridge Walk (about 15-20 minutes from walk from Komaneka at Monkey Forest). You can access the trail from the south near Ibah Resort, where you bear left onto a small road and skirt the perimeter of Pura Gunung Lebah, a beautifully intricate Hindu temple (free to visit).
This picturesque ridge walk offers lush views, but be warned—it’s full sun exposure with zero shade. The wide stones can be tricky to navigate, so wear sneakers for comfort. I brought an umbrella and, as always, my trusty hand fan—lifesavers in the tropical heat.
We started our walk late morning, after yoga and breakfast, making for a hot and humid trek. The ideal move is probably to arrive early, but in the tropics, it’s always warm and I’m not sure it makes a difference. Embrace the sweat and enjoy the views. At just over a mile, the walk is manageable, but you’ll enjoy it more if you plan for the heat—whether that means timing it right or coming prepared.
There is no shade along the Campuhan Ridge Walk – so plan to start very early or late in the day, and/or bring plenty of sun protection.
Rice Fields Walk: A Peaceful Path Through The Countryside
Unlike the steeply terraced Ceking-Tegallalang rice paddies to the north, this gentle, low-key walk offers a more “local” experience—no Instagram swings (unless that’s your thing) or crowds, just a quiet meander through lush rice fields.
The trail is mostly flat with decent shade, making it a relaxing alternative to the Campuhan Ridge Walk. The path is narrows in sections, requiring you to yield to oncoming pedestrian traffic, but it never felt crowded.
Along the way, we passed a mix of locals and fellow travelers. We walked past towering jackfruit trees, a few small waterfalls, and even some fighting cocks. One particularly persistent vendor, an elderly woman, pleaded that making a sale to us would bring her good luck for the day. I felt a pang of guilt for walking away, but we truly didn’t need anything.
At just over a mile, this walk is an easy, scenic way to explore Ubud’s countryside—a peaceful escape from the bustling parts of town.
Where To Shop
Curative Studio Shop (Jalan Hanoman). A small-but-thoughtful boutique stocked with locally made goods.As we browsed, a few pieces caught my eye, among them, a simple black-and-white seed bead necklace with a larger pearl, another pair of costume earrings I didn’t need. In the end, Leah and I both left with the same item—cropped t-shirts from Killflip, a Balinese skate brand. Stop in if you’re looking for modern pieces with a local edge.
Lucy’s Batik (Jalan Monkey Forest). Couldn’t resist. I picked up pre-cut yardage of a vibrant red tie-dye batik—Leah said it was my color. Three yards cost me about $30 USD. If you’re into textiles, color, or wearable souvenirs, this spot is worth a stop.
Threads of Life (Jalan Kajeng): Threads of Life specializes in high-quality, traditionally made textiles with a price tag to match. Leah was tempted by some small skeins of naturally dyed embroidery thread and a cushion cover, while I, predictably, was drawn to some intricately woven baskets.
If you want to go deeper, Threads of Life offers half-day and multi-day workshops on natural dyeing and indigo techniques, perfect for anyone looking to dive into the artistry behind these textiles.
Add This To Your Ubud To-Do List
Gaya Ceramic. Between a blissful day at the resort and our massage the next afternoon, we couldn’t find the time to visit this renowned ceramics center and showroom (which closes at 6:00 PM).
We also missed out on Gaya Gelato, Gaya Ceramic’s sister company. Had I realized there was a location in Ubud—right by the palace next to the Starbucks—I would have made a point to stop in for a scoop. Next time.
Ubud is a study in contrasts. The hum of the city’s markets and motorbikes gives way to the serene stillness of the jungle. It’s a city where sidewalks meet lush rice fields and luxury can come wrapped in a gauzy mosquito net.
Whether you’re sipping a young coconut after a trek to a temple or melting into a massage table, an Ubud vacation will satisfy both the relaxed and the restless. If you have the luxury of time, I recommend making an effort to experience it both ways.
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